It’s 2025, and the obsession with achieving lighter skin is thriving more than ever. Light skin was and is still glorified, seen as a higher standard of beauty and socio-economic status, while darker complexions are unfairly sidelined. “White skin” being seen as desirable didn’t just start today, in fact, it can be traced to colonialism and is interwoven in our social, cultural, and historical traditions. The “White is Right” racist political ideology seems to have moved itself into our daily practices.
An analysis done by the World Health Organisation showed that 77% of Nigerian women regularly use skin-bleaching products. This was discovered alongside the 59% in Togo, 35% in South Africa, and 27% in Senegal. Of course, there are men who bleach their skin as well, but there’s a predominance in women.
The obsession with white skin is a tale as old as time and not exclusive to Nigeria. In ancient China, women swallowed crushed pearls in their quest for a milk-white complexion. The first Korean Dynasty in the Gojoseon Era (475 BC–221 BC) prized “skin like white jade” as a sign of virtue and refinement.
Moving westward, in Europe and North America, white skin was once a symbol of nobility and wealth. Elizabethan women used toxic ceruse, ammonia, and lye to achieve an artificially pale look. In Victorian times, women even ingested arsenic wafers, an actual poison, to maintain a translucent glow.
Many of these dangerous practices faded away as people realised the damage they were doing. Yet, in parts of Africa, Asia, and Latin America, the obsession with fairness persists, fuelled by media representation, and deep-seated cultural beliefs.
So what does this have to do with your bleaching cream? Everything.
Fair skin in Nigeria is associated with beauty, wealth, and desirability, so much so that there’s an entire industry of bleaching products that thrives on people’s insecurities. This video on Instagram is one of the many atrocious examples of skin-whitening practices being done in the country. I also remember seeing a video of a woman adding powdered milk (Peak Milk) to her cosmetic formulation, and advertising it to her customers as a product for “skin like milk.”
Honestly, I’m not even shocked. Many billboards, beauty ads, and Instagram skincare ‘plug’ push the idea that “glowing” is synonymous with being lighter.
The preference for lighter skin is so ingrained that people have problematic nicknames for different shades. I’ve lost count of the times I’ve been called “Coke” while my lighter-skinned friend is called “Fanta.” Walking down the street, I’ve heard people call her “my colour” as if mine was somehow less worthy. It’s exhausting.
But as exhausting as it can be, bleaching creams aren’t the answer. Not only are they harmful, but they’re also a temporary fix to a problem that shouldn’t exist in the first place. If you’ve been using bleaching creams for months, maybe even years, and suddenly, your skin isn’t getting any lighter or even worse, it’s looking dull, patchy, or grey, then it’s time to face the truth. Your bleaching cream has stopped working, and it’s not a glitch in the matrix. There’s a reason for it.
Reasons why your bleaching cream has stopped working, and healthier skincare products to use instead;
1. Your Skin Has Had Enough
The skin is a highly intelligent organ (smarter than the brand selling you “Half-Caste Glow” would like you to believe). Bleaching creams contain harsh depigmenting agents like hydroquinone, mercury, and steroids, which force the skin to suppress melanin production. Melanin is the pigment that gives your skin its colour, and it is produced by melanocytes.
When you use these bleaching creams, they temporarily suppress melanin production. But your body is smart. Over time, your skin develops resistance, and the melanocytes start overproducing pigment to compensate, which may lead to stubborn dark patches and uneven skin tone. Instead of turning lighter, your skin might become darker in some areas.
2. Your Bleaching Cream Is Filled with Harsh, Illegal Ingredients
Despite NAFDAC’s best efforts, Nigeria’s booming but poorly regulated cosmetic industry is a breeding ground for bleaching products with dangerous levels of hydroquinone and mercury. These ingredients don’t just damage your skin. They also enter your bloodstream and cause long-term health issues like kidney damage and hormonal imbalance. If you’ve been slathering on something called Egyptian Snow White body wash, you’re likely dealing with a cocktail of unregulated chemicals that your skin can no longer tolerate.
3. Skin Damage Can’t Be Reversed with More Bleaching
If your skin has started looking rough, thin, or overly sensitive, your body is waving a giant red flag. According to this study, years of aggressive skin-lightening can weaken your skin’s protective barrier and make it prone to infections, redness, and even conditions like exogenous ochronosis, a condition in which the skin turns dark with a blue-black effect.
In the early stages, the skin may just look slightly darker and rougher. As it worsens, small bumps can start forming, eventually turning into raised, black, caviar-like spots, especially on areas exposed to the sun, like the temples, cheeks, and neck.
The worst part is that once the damage is done, no amount of bleaching will reverse it. You’ll just keep applying stronger creams, which will cause even more harm.
4. You’re Skipping the Most Important Step: Sun Protection
Many people who bleach their skin don’t realise that lightening agents make skin extremely sensitive to the sun. Without proper sun protection, your skin will darken faster than before. This is why some people who bleach complain about becoming “two-toned” - lighter on their stomach and inner arms but darker on their face and hands. Sunscreen isn’t optional; it’s a must. But how many people using “Half-Caste Glow” also religiously apply SPF 50? Exactly.
5. Your Skin Barrier Is Damaged
Most bleaching creams strip your skin’s natural barrier, by making it thin, dry, and prone to irritation. A weak skin barrier means your skin can’t retain moisture, fight bacteria, or heal properly, which is why many people who bleach end up with sensitive, reddish, or greyish skin over time.
How to Fix Your Skin And Start Fresh
Instead of chasing an unrealistic beauty standard, why not focus on loving and nurturing the skin you’re in? If you’re ready to stop bleaching and restore your skin, here’s what you need:
1. Barrier Repair
The skin barrier is your skin’s first line of defence against external aggressors like bacteria, pollution, and harsh weather. It’s like a protective wall made up of skin cells (bricks) held together by natural lipids (mortar), which include ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol. If you use bleaching creams, they thin out your skin and disrupt your skin barrier over time.
Barrier repair refers to restoring a damaged skin barrier by replenishing its natural lipids and hydration levels. It uses gentle, nourishing products that support the skin’s ability to heal and protect itself.
Face Facts Ceramide Hydrating Gentle Cleanser
This gentle face wash works to deeply cleanse all skin types. It has a gel-to-foam texture, and it is formulated with five types of ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide to hydrate, replenish and restore the skin barrier. Price: ₦5,500 - ₦7,700. Where To Buy: Shop Skin Pop Essentiel.
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule
Since you focus on hydration and healing your skin barrier, you should definitely include Centella Asiatica (Cica) in your routine. This ingredient calms irritated and inflamed skin.
It reduces redness from breakouts, strengthens the skin barrier, and speeds up the skin healing process. And this Madagascar Centella Ampoule contains 100% Centella extract with glycerin. It has a watery texture, and it is fragrance-free. Price: ₦16,800. Where To Buy: Shop Hermosamart.
CeraVe Daily Moisturising Lotion
This is a simple moisturizer that does exactly what it promises to do. It is lightweight and suitable for all skin types. It contains three essential ceramides and hyaluronic acid to lock in moisture and restore the skin’s protective barrier.
I love this lotion because it can be used on both face and body, and it lasts a really long time. One bottle can last you for close to a year, I’m not even joking. Price: ₦27,000. Where To Buy: Shop Tos Nigeria.
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2. Switch to Brightening, Not Bleaching
Brightening products are designed to even out your skin tone and enhance your natural glow without the harmful side effects of lightening products. Look for ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, and alpha arbutin.
These work by gently and safely inhibiting melanin production. You can also incorporate botanical extracts like licorice, green tea, soy, and mulberry, which brighten the skin. These extracts are safer, more affordable, and less reactive.
Acwell Licorice pH Balancing Cleansing Toner
This is a personal favourite of mine because, as someone with ultra-sensitive skin, I found this toner gentle enough to calm my skin, slightly hydrate it, and brighten my skin tone. It uses licorice water and peony extract, two naturally brightening ingredients, to reduce dark spots and give your skin a beautiful glow. Price: ₦10,999. Where to Buy: Shop Teeka4.
Isoi Blemish Care Brightening Serum
This 5-star serum has been a best-seller in South Korea for years. It uses Bulgarian rose oil, blueberry, cranberry, and licorice extracts, as well as rose water, to brighten and improve uneven skin tone. It also contains Centella Asiatica and allantoin to hydrate and nourish the skin. It’s also gentle enough to be used on sensitive skin. Price: 25,800. Where To Buy: Shop Shop Station.
Olay Vitamin C Body Lotion
Instead of a body lotion with high concentrations of steroids and lightening agents, why not use one carefully formulated to brighten your skin without causing irritation? This Olay Vitamin C Body Lotion has only great reviews on the internet. It contains vitamin C and vitamin B3 (niacinamide), two brightening ingredients, so you can get a radiant complexion with this lotion. Price: ₦17,500. Where to Buy: Shop Teeka4.
3. Exfoliate Regularly
Exfoliation helps remove dead skin cells and promotes cell turnover, which can help with uneven skin tone. Chemical exfoliants, such as mandelic or lactic acid, are gentler than physical scrubs.
Wishtrend Mandelic Acid
Formulated with 5% mandelic acid, this toner gently exfoliates your skin. Mandelic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from bitter almonds. It also contains hydrating and soothing ingredients like Centella Asiatica, hyaluronic acid, and beta-glucan. This product should be used at least two to three times a week. Price: ₦13,200. Where to Buy: Shop Teeka4.
4. Sunscreen, Every Day
Protect your skin from further damage with a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 - 50. Check out our list of the best sunscreens for dry and thirsty skin, sensitive skin, and dark skin with no white cast.
5. Embrace Your Natural Skin Tone
This might sound cliché, but it’s the most important step. Your skin is beautiful as it is, whether it’s “Coke,” “Fanta,” or somewhere in between. Instead of trying to change it, focus on keeping it healthy and radiant.
The Bigger Question Is, Why Are You Bleaching?
Your skin was never the problem, the world just made you think it was. And at this point, it’s not just about why your cream isn’t working; it’s about why you feel the need to keep using it. The truth is, the beauty industry thrives on making you feel inadequate. Fair skin is not superior, and despite what society has drilled into your head, your melanin is not a flaw that needs to be “fixed.”
Nourishing your natural complexion with hydration, good skincare, and SPF will do far more for your glow than any bleaching cream ever will. Your skin deserves better than being a science experiment for cheap, harmful chemicals. So, if your bleaching cream isn’t working anymore, maybe, just maybe, it’s time to stop using it altogether.