Retinol has long been celebrated as a gold-standard ingredient in skincare. It is known for its remarkable ability to accelerate cell turnover, reduce hyperpigmentation, and improve skin elasticity.
Retinol helps your skin shed old, dead cells and replace them with fresh, healthy ones. This process keeps the outer layer of your skin (the epidermis) smooth and even. It also strengthens your skin’s protective barrier by preventing moisture from escaping and keeping your skin hydrated.
However, when it comes to effectiveness, one question frequently arises: does a retinol cream or serum work faster? The answer largely depends on formulation, concentration, and skin absorption.
Understanding Retinol’s Mechanism and Formulation
Retinoids, including retinol, function by binding to retinoic acid receptors (RARs) in the skin. This triggers collagen production and enhances skin renewal. Clinical studies have shown that retinoids significantly improve signs of photoaging, including fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven pigmentation. However, their efficacy is largely dependent on their formulation and delivery system.
Serums, by nature, are lightweight and designed for fast absorption. They typically contain higher concentrations of active ingredients and penetrate the skin more effectively due to their thinner consistency. Retinol serums, therefore, provide the active ingredient more directly to the skin’s deeper layers, therefore making them an attractive option for those seeking quicker results.
On the other hand, retinol creams have a thicker, more emollient texture. While they add hydration and create a protective barrier, this formulation slows absorption. The occlusive nature of cream allows for gradual release, meaning it is most likely less irritating and potentially delaying quick and visible improvements.
What Does Research Say?
A study assessing the rejuvenating effects of retinol serum at concentrations of 0.3% and 0.5% found that both improved hyperpigmentation, skin elasticity, and overall tone over a 12-week period. Notably, the 0.5% concentration caused more irritation, which highlights the balance between potency and tolerability. The study also emphasised that retinol in a liquid crystal formulation boosts efficacy while minimising side effects.
Moreover, research on retinol’s role in treating photoaged skin confirms that its ability to reduce melanin production and boost collagen deposition is formulation-dependent. Retinol serums, being more concentrated and rapidly absorbed, tend to deliver visible results faster than creams. However, they may also cause more irritation, especially for sensitive skin types.
Retinol Creams And Moisturisers To Try
1. L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Triple Power Moisturiser
Best For: Wrinkles, hydration, dullness
Formulated to target wrinkles, dullness, and loss of firmness, L’Oréal’s Revitalift Moisturiser is an anti-ageing face moisturiser. The formula includes pro-retinol to stimulate cell renewal, hyaluronic acid to deeply hydrate, and vitamin C to brighten the complexion.
Per the company, your skin will look plumper, smoother, and more radiant in one week. This retinol moisturiser is one of the best-selling retinol creams which speaks for itself. It comes in three versions; one with fragrance, one without fragrance-free and one with sunscreen (SPF 30). Price: $32.38. Where To Buy: Shop Amazon.
2. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Daily Hydration Face Cream
Best For: Fine lines, loss of hydration, skin texture
For anyone who wants a retinol-infused moisturiser that hydrates while smoothing fine lines, RoC’s Retinol Correxion Max is a good starting point. The cream combines retinol with hyaluronic acid for intense hydration and skin-plumping benefits.
It helps to visibly reduce wrinkles and improve overall skin texture with consistent use. Despite its powerful formula, it is gentle enough for daily application.
Just like the L’Oreal moisturiser above, this moisturiser also comes in a fragranced and fragrance-free formula. Price: $22.94. Where To Buy: Shop Amazon.
3. Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol Regenerating Cream
Best For: Wrinkles, hydration, uneven skin tone
A fast-acting anti-ageing cream, Neutrogena’s Rapid Wrinkle Repair combines retinol with hydrating and brightening ingredients to smooth skin in as little as a week. It uses retinol to accelerate cell turnover, while hyaluronic acid and glycerin provide lasting moisture. With continued use, skin appears firmer, plumper, and more even in tone. Price: $26.29. Where To Buy: Shop Amazon.
4. Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 Night Moisturiser
Best For: Fine lines, pores, uneven texture
Olay’s Retinol 24 formula is an entry-level retinol cream for anyone looking for overnight skin renewal without irritation. Made with Olay’s proprietary niacinamide + retinol complex, this formula hydrates for up to 24 hours while visibly improving fine lines, brightness, and texture. It’s also fragrance-free for anyone who side eyes products with fragrance. Price: ₦29,800. Where To Buy: Shop Go Med.
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Retinol Serums To Try
1. Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum
Best For: Fine lines, dark spots, UV damage
Sunday Riley is a trusted skincare brand that creates products that actually work (although expensive). This serum has a 6.5% stabilised retinoid solution with botanical alternatives to provide maximum anti-ageing and skin-renewing benefits.
It combines a 5% retinoid ester blend and 1% encapsulated retinol which clears fine lines, dark spots, and congestion. It also uses Blue-green algae to provide a natural, retinoid-like effect, and Hawaiian white honey and ginger extract to soothe the skin. Additionally, it uses CoQ10, a powerful antioxidant, to support the repair of UV damage and signs of ageing. Price: $85. Where To Buy: Shop Amazon.
•When to Apply: Apply one to two pumps at night, followed by a facial oil for extra moisture, as retinol often has a drying effect.
2. Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3 Serum
Best For: Dull skin, fine lines, uneven texture
Now if retinol just isn’t suitable for your skin and you want a retinol alternative, you can try this Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3 Serum. It uses Retinaldehyde, a powerful but less irritating alternative to traditional retinol, which works faster to accelerate skin renewal while being more tolerable. This formula also uses hyaluronic acid for hydration, vitamin E for antioxidant protection, and glycerin to prevent moisture loss.
It has five strengths; strength one for sensitive skin, strength three for new vitamin A users, strength six for regular vitamin A users, strength 10 for advanced vitamin A users, and strength 20 for experienced vitamin A users. Level three is great for beginners or those transitioning from retinol. Price: $64. Where To Buy: Shop Amazon.
When to Apply: Nightly, followed by a moisturiser; start slowly if new to retinoids.
3. The Ordinary Retinol Serum in Squalane
Best For: Hydration, fine lines, first-time retinol users
The Ordinary’s Retinol Serum in Squalane is a water-free formulation designed to provide the benefits of retinol without unnecessary additives. It has a 1% retinol concentration, which is just enough for anyone who is new to the ingredient or with sensitive skin.
It also contains squalane, a deeply hydrating emollient, and jojoba oil for extra nourishment. The serum counteracts the dryness and irritation often associated with retinol use. In addition, it has tomato fruit and rosemary leaf extracts, which provide antioxidant benefits by protecting the skin from environmental damage. Price: ₦19,300. Where to Buy: Rhema Beauty Shop.
4. CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum
Best For: Acne scars, enlarged pores, uneven tone
CeraVe’s Resurfacing Retinol Serum is a retinol serum for acne-prone and blemish-prone skin. The brand has a line of products specifically for acne-prone skin, and this product is one of them. It refines skin texture while minimising the look of post-acne marks.
It contains encapsulated retinol, which ensures a slow and controlled release of retinol to prevent irritation, while niacinamide and ceramides maintain the skin’s barrier by keeping it hydrated and soothed.
Among its ingredients is licorice root extract, a natural ingredient that has a brightening effect and reduces hyperpigmentation over time. Price: ₦17,500. Where To Buy: Shop Bevy Beauty.
Which Formulation is More Effective?
Effectiveness can be measured by how quickly and visibly retinol improves skin concerns. If speed is the primary goal, a well-formulated retinol serum with stabilising ingredients (such as encapsulated retinol) is likely to work faster. The light texture allows the active ingredient to reach deeper layers of the skin more efficiently, which leads to quicker improvements in texture, tone, and fine lines.
However, a retinol cream may be the better option for individuals with dry or sensitive skin. The thicker formulation provides hydration and reduces the likelihood of irritation, allowing for a more comfortable long-term treatment. The gradual release of retinol in a cream means that while results may take longer to appear, they are often accompanied by improved skin barrier function.
Speed vs. Tolerance
Ultimately, if you are looking for faster results and have resilient skin, a retinol serum will likely deliver noticeable improvements within a shorter time frame. However, if your skin is prone to dryness or irritation, a retinol cream may be the better option for consistent, long-term benefits.
The best formulation depends on your individual skin needs, lifestyle, and tolerance levels. Regardless of your choice, consistent use of retinol is still a great way to achieve brighter, firmer, and healthier skin.
Make sure to speak to your dermatologist or skincare specialist before making great changes to your skincare routine, or introducing a new potent ingredient.
Disclaimer: Retinol increases skin sensitivity to sunlight. This means it makes the skin more prone to sunburn and damage. To protect your skin, always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) during the day when using any retinol product, either in a cream or serum form. Consistent sun protection is very essential to prevent irritation, premature aging, and hyperpigmentation.