Exfoliation is that friend who always tells you the truth, sometimes a little harsh, but ultimately, they just want the best for you. It’s the skincare step that helps you clear dead skin cells, unclog pores, and reveal the fresh, radiant skin hiding underneath. No matter the skin type or concern you have, from dullness, stubborn dark spots, or uneven texture, you still have to exfoliate because it’s one of the best ways to always have fresh and healthy skin.
There are two main routes to exfoliation: physical exfoliation (like scrubs, brushes, and all things grainy) and chemical exfoliation (acids that dissolve dead skin cells without scrubbing). For dark skin, chemical exfoliants, especially Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) like Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid, are often the better choice.
Physical exfoliants can be too abrasive and cause micro-tears, leading to irritation and hyperpigmentation.
Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid are two of the most popular AHAs in the skincare game, each one promising smoother, brighter skin. But which one is the real MVP for dark skin?
What is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic Acid is the smallest AHA, which means it can penetrate deeply into the skin to speed up cell turnover. This is great for tackling stubborn hyperpigmentation, uneven texture, and fine lines. It also helps with breakouts by keeping pores clear, making it a favourite for oily and acne-prone skin.
Since Glycolic Acid works so deep, it’s often hailed as the stronger exfoliant. However, for dark skin, that’s both a blessing and a potential curse. Darker complexions naturally produce more melanin, and when irritated, the skin can respond with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), aka those dark spots that take forever to fade.
Because Glycolic Acid is quite potent, overuse or high concentrations can trigger irritation, redness, and unwanted discolouration. The trick is to start with a low percentage (5-8%) and always follow up with SPF, as exfoliation and sun exposure are a recipe for hyperpigmentation.
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Here are some glycolic acid product recommendations:
1. The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toner
This glycolic acid toner from The Ordinary has reached icon status in the skincare world because it’s a no-nonsense, high-performance exfoliant. This water-based toner contains 7% glycolic acid, which helps get rid of dead skin cells and reveal a smoother, brighter complexion. It also contains a Tasmanian Pepperberry derivative, which helps calm down irritation.
Additionally, this is a multitasking toner that isn’t just for your face alone. It can also be applied to rough areas on the body, and the TikTok girls swear by this toner for brightening dark underarms and inner thighs. Use this in your evening routine and always follow up with SPF during the day to protect your skin from sun sensitivity. Price: ₦27,500 - ₦35,000. Where To Buy: Shop Coco Rosey.
2. Alpha Skincare Renewal Body Lotion (12% Glycolic Acid)
If you struggle with rough, dry, or bumpy skin, this 12% glycolic acid body lotion might transform your complexion. Unlike regular body moisturisers, this formula does double duty by exfoliating dead skin while deeply hydrating.
With a pH of 4.0, it is gentle and effective. This lotion is best for smoothing out rough patches, especially on arms, legs, and elbows. Apply to damp skin after showering for better absorption. Price: ₦17,999. Where To Buy: Shop Shop Station.
3. Pixi Glow Tonic (5% Glycolic Acid)
A cult favourite for a reason, Pixi’s Glow Tonic dominated my TikTok feed during the COVID-19 quarantine. It contains 5% glycolic acid to gently exfoliate, refine pores, and boost skin radiance. Formulated with ginseng and aloe vera, this toner smooths and hydrates and soothes the skin.
This toner would be enjoyed by beginners or those with normal-to-dry skin who want a gentle exfoliation. If you have sensitive skin, use it every other night and gradually increase the frequency. Price: ₦26,000. Where to Buy: Shop TOS Nigeria.
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What is Lactic Acid?
If Glycolic Acid is the bold, no-nonsense AHA, Lactic Acid is its softer, more considerate sibling. It has a larger molecular structure, so it doesn’t penetrate as deeply, making it a gentler option for exfoliation. But don’t mistake gentleness for weakness; Lactic Acid still works wonders at brightening dull skin, smoothing texture, and fading discolouration.
What makes Lactic Acid extra special is its hydrating properties. Unlike Glycolic Acid, which can sometimes leave the skin feeling tight, Lactic Acid actually also increases the skin’s moisture level. For anyone with dry or sensitive dark skin, this might be a great addition to their routine. Less irritation means a lower chance of triggering PIH, which means Lactic Acid is a safer bet for treating hyperpigmentation.
Here are some lactic acid product recommendations:
1. Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 6% Mandelic + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant
Lactic acid lovers, this one’s for you! This 6% mandelic acid + 2% lactic acid toner is both gentle and effective, and it can be used by sensitive skin types. Unlike glycolic acid, lactic acid hydrates while also exfoliating and it makes your skin feel soft, smooth, and never dry or tight.
It also contains cherry blossom and yarrow root extract to support and calm the skin’s microbiome. Layer this under a hydrating serum to maximise its glow-boosting effect. Price: ₦31,000. Where to Buy: Shop The Beauty Prism.
2. AmLactin Daily Nourish 12% Exfoliating + Hydrating AHA Lotion
Don’t let the slightly clinical packaging fool you. AmLactin’s 12% lactic acid lotion is dermatologist-approved for treating dry, flaky, and rough skin. It deeply hydrates and gently exfoliates the skin, so it’s a favourite for people with skin concerns like keratosis pilaris and dry, ashy skin.
You can also use this lotion to exfoliate and brighten your underarms as well. The only downside is that it doesn’t smell the best, but the results are well worth it. Price: ₦25,500. Where To Buy: Shop The Skin Hookup Nigeria.
• Pro tip: Apply overnight and follow up with a body oil for extra hydration.
Customer review: “I have sensitive skin that is prone to irritation and dryness. I've been using this most days on my face and upper arms for a couple of weeks now, and it has helped to improve my skin texture immensely. The bumps on my arms are gone and my face looks great. I haven't been able to use other products to help smooth the skin on my face because they have always immediately caused irritation. The first and second time I used this I felt momentary burning, but the sensation went away very quickly and never caused any visible skin irritation. To the contrary, my skin looks and feels better than it has in years.”
3. Good Molecules Overnight Exfoliating Treatment (10% AHA + BHA)
If you want to wake up with baby-soft, glowing skin, this overnight exfoliating treatment might be just what you need. Formulated with 10% glycolic and lactic acid, it smooths texture, unclogs pores, and brightens the complexion while you sleep.
It also contains salicylic acid, a star ingredient for those who struggle with breakouts. To prevent overexfoliation, this product should be used once or twice a week. The price ₦10,449. Where to Buy: Shop Beauty By Daz.
4. REN Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic
This lactic acid and willow bark extract provide gentle daily exfoliation, helping keep your skin radiant without irritation. It targets dullness and uneven skin tone and is gentle enough for sensitive skin.
It helps to clear off dead skin cells, tighten the appearance of pores, and even out skin tone, which means it’s great for anyone with hyperpigmentation. Price: ₦43,000. Where to Buy: Shop TOS Nigeria.
Customer review: “Cannot recommend this product enough especially as someone with sensitive skin. Tonics and toners that don’t cause some kind of negative reaction are very hard for me to find, but this has changed my routine. The size of the product is a major plus too!”
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Which One Wins for Dark Skin?
It really depends on your skin type and concerns:
Glycolic Acid can help prevent breakouts and refine the texture of acne-prone or oily skin, but it should be used in moderation to avoid irritation.
For dry or sensitive skin: Lactic Acid is your best bet, as it exfoliates while keeping your skin hydrated and happy.
For hyperpigmentation: Both acids can help, but if your skin is easily irritated, Lactic Acid is the safer choice to avoid worsening dark spots.
If you’re new to chemical exfoliation, Lactic Acid is a great starting point. You can always graduate to Glycolic Acid once your skin builds tolerance. And regardless of which acid you choose, patch test first, start slow, and never skip sunscreen!
Glycolic Acid is powerful, but it requires a careful approach for dark skin to avoid irritation and hyperpigmentation. On the other hand, Lactic Acid is a gentler alternative that still delivers glow-worthy results. If in doubt, start with Lactic Acid and ease into Glycolic acid if your skin can handle it. At the end of the day, healthy, radiant skin is always the goal.
Remember that no matter which one you choose, always follow up with SPF. AHAs make your skin more sun-sensitive; the last thing you want is to undo all your hard work.