ADVERTISEMENT

A healthy fast-food joint that got panned by a New York Times food critic is crushing it

Locol serves high-quality fast-food at affordable prices in America's food deserts.

null

The biggest restaurant story of the year has arguably been New York Times critic Pete Wells' withering review of Locol, a fast-food concept that brings high-quality

ADVERTISEMENT

I recently made a return trip to Locol to see how the food fared since Wells' review. Take a look.

Welcome to the fast food revolution, according to Locol's website.

As more Americans turn to plant-based foods for health or environmental reasons, new fast-food chains are seizing the opportunity to compete with legacy brands like McDonald's, KFC, and Domino's. They serve low-calorie menus at similar prices.

ADVERTISEMENT

Source:

Locol has carved a niche in the space by serving neighborhoods where residents don't have access to or can't afford high-quality meals.

Locol beefs up the nutritional value of its foods by replacing some ingredients with healthy alternatives.

Source:

The hallmark of the menu is a $5 cheeseburger prepared "classic roadside" style with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and onion. The patty blends 70% beef and 30% tofu and grains.

ADVERTISEMENT

The burger arrived with cheese melted and a "special sauce" delightfully spilling out the sides. The bun, which even Wells called "undeniably excellent," was toasted and spongy.

Not to be outdone, the $5 veggie burger has a surprisingly meaty texture, though it's made from grains, legumes, miso, onion, and garlic. The produce crunched with every bite.

The patty was expertly executed — crunchy out the outside, soft and chewy on the inside.

The fries, a new addition to the menu, are oversized and tossed in salt, pepper, and paprika. They tasted surprisingly bland, but at $2 a carton, they're a bargain.

I also tried a $2 "foldie," a taco-quesadilla hybrid that has melted cheese, braised beef, salsa, and beans. It was greasy and had the texture of wet dog food. I quit after two bites.

ADVERTISEMENT

The 12-piece basket of chicken nuggets was no technical masterpiece. Bits of ground chicken came together inside a light breading. Overall, they tasted gummy and bland.

And I'd order them again. Dunked in barbecue sauce, they were the ultimate portable guilty-pleasure food. What more do you want from fast-food chicken nuggets?

Not every item on the Locol menu is a home run, but it beats McDonald's fare any day. The burgers, grilled to perfection and stacked with fresh produce, had me in fast-food nirvana.

And despite using high-quality, locally sourced ingredients, Locol manages to keep its prices competitive with legacy brands. I got my entire haul for $27. I'll be back (unlike Wells).

FOLLOW BUSINESS INSIDER AFRICA

Unblock notifications in browser settings.
ADVERTISEMENT

Recommended articles

Africa's first black billionaire could join $2.9 billion Vivendi bid for MultiChoice

Africa's first black billionaire could join $2.9 billion Vivendi bid for MultiChoice

10 most dangerous African countries in 2024

10 most dangerous African countries in 2024

Russia’s nuclear influence expands further north of Africa

Russia’s nuclear influence expands further north of Africa

Navigating the future: How AI transforms selling on Amazon

Navigating the future: How AI transforms selling on Amazon

Wall decor tips: Transforming your space with style and creativity

Wall decor tips: Transforming your space with style and creativity

Putin's African diplomacy: Security talks with West, Central Africa take centre stage

Putin's African diplomacy: Security talks with West, Central Africa take centre stage

Infinix users get over 35% exclusive discount on Showmax premier league & general entertainment subscription

Infinix users get over 35% exclusive discount on Showmax premier league & general entertainment subscription

10 longest bridges in Africa

10 longest bridges in Africa

India issues free heart surgeries to 150 Ugandan children

India issues free heart surgeries to 150 Ugandan children

ADVERTISEMENT